In days of yore Martha Washington would have her Great Cake prepared for Twelfth Night, also her wedding anniversary. You start by separating the yolks and whites of 40 eggs!
By chance I read about the Great Cake in the Post, then read Dirk Beauregarde's long piece on French bakers--boulangeries, which devotes space to the French custom of having the galette des rois on Twelfth Night (I think it means the "cake of the king") or at least in January.
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