That's the title the New Yorker magazine puts on its article on Modern Farmer.
I'm not sure New Yorker is in any position to judge which farmers are fake and which authentic. My impression of the magazine, based on its RSS feed, is that it's aimed at what we used to call "hobby farmers", or rather maybe those people who dream of being hobby farmers. I mean the people who have income or assets from outside farming which might enable them to try various niches in the world of food and agriculture. It's rather like the knitting magazines someone near and dear to me subscribes to, presenting lots of projects and ideas and news, very little of which is in any danger of being knitted. Or maybe closer to home it's like all the unread books in the house, a sign of my interests and affiliations, but few of which will actually be read before I die.
[* That's the title on their website, the one in the printed magazine is "Read It and Reap." Added in edit.]
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